The Value of Fit Standards and Blocks
What I’ve learnt about fit and fashion
Nothing ruins a great style like poor fit. I have mentioned that I am a fit fanatic, in fact, my first job in the fashion industry was collecting data for the 2002 Rip Curl Sizing Survey. After measuring 2300 young girls and women from Melbourne to Brisbane I could just about guess your measurements from across the room! Previous to this survey the Australian fashion industry relied on data collected by Berlei in 1926 and Women’s Weekly magazine in 1969. It’s no surprise that body shape and lifestyle has since changed, and therefore our fashion needs must adapt.
Fashion is ever-evolving and I believe there is no “one size fits all” theory that will suit every brand. When developing your fit standard we will consider your product type, brand image, target market and opportunities. A fit standard will encourage brand loyalty, increase online purchasing confidence and reduce fit related returns.
Why does your brand need a fit standard?
Fashion brands spend a lot of money on branding, marketing, manufacturing and shipping only to have around 30% of all online orders returned. The biggest reason is fit, and the answer is not as simple as the box ticked on the return form - “too big” or “too small”. The garment may not have been right for the customer’s body type, or the grading may not have considered how the body changes over different sizes. Standard garment grading does not allow for extra ease or length required in larger sizes. Nor does it take into account changing body type, fabric stretch or overall comfort.
But the biggest factor in building a fit standard is understanding your customer. Body measurements aside, how do your customers like their garments to fit? The answer could be affected by your customers’ age or culture, lifestyle and changing fashion trends. A fit standard will determine your finished garment measurements. Following a fit standard designed specifically for your brand will streamline the sample process and create cohesion across your range.
Brand specific block development
A pattern “block” is a basic base pattern that can be used to develop future styles. We are not talking about the calico toiles from your student days here, blocks should be relevant to your brand and made up in your common fabrics. Blocks work alongside your fit standard and are developed with your brands image and common styling in mind. Blocks are especially useful if your brand makes multiple similar styles, or if consistency of fit across products is important, eg lingerie, activewear.
A customised fit standard and collection of tested blocks for your brand will ensure consistency of fit and product image across your ranges which in turn will build your brand loyalty, increase online purchasing confidence and reduce fit related returns.