Creative Fashion Patternmaking
A garment pattern is an interpretation of the designer’s vision
Working to your design brief, I will bring your ideas to life, interpreting the overall style whilst paying attention to the smallest detail. While fit is important – more on that in Fit Standards – a good pattern will elevate the garment, convey your brand’s personality and contribute to a smooth production process. I have 18 years industry experience in making patterns for most childrens and womenswear fashion categories supplying private house brand and national designer brand product to many Australian and New Zealand retailers.
Why freelance patternmaking?
There is a belief in the fashion industry that it is quicker and cheaper to supply specs or tech packs directly to a factory so they can make the pattern. Although tech specs play an important role in the production process, working directly with a patternmaker who understands your brand will save you time and money in the long term. Using the same patternmaker throughout your range will give you control over the fit, quality, fabric usage and therefor cost price of your entire product range.
Depending on the nature of your business, this may not be a full time permanent role. The Melbourne Patternmaker is available for one-off or ongoing projects. Your digital pattern will be emailed as a universal .dxf or .mdl Lectra files. Tech packs and specs can also be provided. You will own these digital copies of your patterns for future use, which you may not be the case if the factory is making your patterns. Cardboard or paper patterns can also be provided if required.
Working with a freelance patternmaker
Fitting samples with your patternmaker is the fastest way to realise your design. I recommend attending your fit sessions in person or via video call so I can receive direct feedback and eliminate emails back and forth communicating fit comments or changes.
With a clear handover, and good communication between the designer and patternmaker, most styles are ready for production in 2-3 samples. There’s more information on the ideal handover process and a template to download on my contact & resources page
The 1st sample can be a mock up or “toile” and is used to test overall fit, design proportion and fabric suitability. Then a 2nd sample is made to perfect the fit, fine tune the design and check the making quality. Simple styles are often ready to proceed to production at this point. If a 3rd sample is required, usually it is a more complicated style or there has been some style change or revision, this is fine – it’s all part of the process.
Levelling up your fit standards
If you are starting a new label, or looking to standardise the fit of your existing range, I recommend developing Fit Standards and Blocks. A fit standard tailored to your brand’s needs will provide more information than standard grading. You will be given a set of detailed body and garment measurements that can be used by your design team and patternmaker/garment tech to ensure consistency of fit across your range.
Blocks are basic primary patterns that can be used alongside your fit standard to develop future styles. Using blocks results in better fitting first samples. Your fit standard and blocks should be suited to your brand and fabrics. For example, an activewear brand does not need a fit guide for a strapless bodice or a block for a woven shirt.